February 27, 2006

渡假不渡假Vacation or not?!

越忙的時候,越喜歡想些有的沒有的,就說是種調劑吧!小到想想今天晚餐吃什麼,大到今年渡假可以去哪裡,天馬行空的幻想,總會帶給我一些快樂。
The busier I am, the more I think about things unrelated to work as mediation. Things from what I would have for dinner, to where we can go for vacation… just a small thought of it can always bring me some happiness.

我喜歡旅行之前的幻想,想著可以去哪裡,可以做什麼,可以看什麼,可以吃什麼,光是想,就讓人有種躍躍欲試的衝動。
I especially enjoy thinking about traveling, where to go, what to do, what to see and what to eat. Just thinking about it makes my heart “fly”.

只是,今年的旅行計畫,好像有那麼一點不順利呢!原本計畫三月偕米奇回台掃墓,先是因為米奇的工作計畫而延到六月;在好友克里斯和希薇亞決定當跟屁蟲到台灣,也買好機票的那一天,米奇卻傳來工作計畫延長的消息,原本快樂的四人行,霎時變成雙人加燈泡一枚。
It doesn’t seem to be a “smooth” year for traveling. At the beginning we thought to go back to Taiwan in March, but the trip was postponed to June due to Michele’s work schedule. After Cristian and Silvia decided to come along in June, Michele was told that the project would be ended in October. So the two-couple trip has become a one-couple plus a light bulb!

工作計畫的延長,對我們這種自由工作者來說是好事,不過也連帶影響到今年的度假計畫(在我的字典中,回台灣絕對不等於渡假)…原本九月的紐西蘭行,因為飛行時間長,我們能放下貓兒出門旅行的時間向來不超過兩個禮拜,幾個月我就開始考慮延後,至少到我拿到義大利護照再去(至少省去辦簽證的麻煩),目的地從紐西蘭改成冰島。不過演變至今,冰島似乎也是去不成了,米奇至少要到十月才可能有空(而且根據經驗法則,說十月結束,一定會拖到十一月以後),屆時的冰島已經進入嚴冬,安全性和開銷而言都不是上選。
The extended work schedule means money, and as a freelancer there’s nothing to be complained about. However, our “trip of the year” is also postponed. (Well, in my dictionary going back to Taiwan has nothing to do with vacation.) We thought to go to New Zealand, but after a thorough consideration about long flight and our cats, we decided to postpone it at least until I receive Italian citizenship (so that I won’t need to apply for a visa). The destination was changed from New Zealand to Iceland. Up to now, it seems that we can’t even go to Iceland. Michele will only be free in October (and according to past experiences when they say October it means November at least). By that time it’s already deep winter in Iceland, not the best place to go if considering security and financial point of view.

能去的地方其實不少,不過今年有一種想要開眼界的感覺,想要看點不一樣的,結果…在時間、地點、政治因素等諸多考量之下,腦袋裡反而是一片空白,一下子竟然不知道可以去哪裡玩耍!這還真是頭一遭,趕稿之餘的調劑不見了,誰替我找回來啊~~~
Well, it’s such a big world and I kind of have the feeling that I want something different this year. However, considering from time, places and political issues I just can’t come up with anything. I can’t think of a place to go!! It’s the very first time in my life that I don’t know where to go. My leisure-time in this busy period is gone… Who can find it back for me…

February 24, 2006

駕照 Driving License (V)

向駕訓班詢問考試時間的結果,真是令人感到晴天霹靂!早上八點到指定地點等待…集合地點離我家不遠,不過早上尖峰時間的交通擁塞,原本不消十五分鐘的車程,可能得開到四十分鐘,這種狀況之下當然是越早出門越好。這意味的是我最晚可以睡到七點,然後在二十分鐘內梳妝打扮完畢,才可能在八點準時到達。對於習慣夜貓子生活,一般在電腦前爬到半夜兩點才去睡覺,不到中午不起床的我,可真是件苦差事。
When I asked for the appointment of exam, I was shocked! I was told to be at the appointed place by 8AM… it’s not far from home, but with the morning traffic the 15-minute trip will probably become a 40-minute one. I had to leave home as early as I could. It means I could sleep until 7AM and finish preparing myself in 20 minutes. I always have been a night person, and I still am. I normally stay in front of the computer until late, go to sleep around 2AM and sleep the whole morning over. It’s very difficult for me to get up early.

這種事也沒得反駁,教練一句「早點去早點考」,我認命了!
Nothing to argue over such thing. They said, “the earlier you get there the earlier you’ll have the exam.” So that’s it.

考試當日,不到早上八點,我和米奇人已經在約定地點等待。只是左看右看,來了七八輛其他駕訓班的車子,就是不見我的教練。八點半,我眼睜睜地看著考官上了其他駕訓班的車,而我的教練連個影子都還沒有。
Michele and I arrived before 8AM. We looked around and only saw cars from other driving school. Where’s mine? We waited until 8:30, saw the examiner went up to one of the cars and left while I was still waiting for my coach.

一直到快九點的時候,我的教練才珊珊來遲…他對於遲到的理由是「因為通常會有人遲到」,害我心中咒罵連連,很想要一把掐下去算了。(最痛恨人家剝奪我得睡眠時間…)
He didn’t arrive until 9AM… His excuse was “people normally arrive late”. I kept swearing silently and was so angry that I was about to break his neck! I hate people who deprive me of sleep.

趕不上第一批考試,就只能痴痴地等到第一批人全考完,考官才會再回到集合地點,以每個人十五至二十分鐘算起來,至少也要等到十點半!枯等時也只能有一搭沒一搭地聊天,真是浪費人寶貴的時間。
I wasn’t able to join the first “wave” and could only wait for the second round. The examiner would only come back when everyone of the first round was done. Normally, one would be allowed 15 to 20 minutes of exam, which means I’d have to wait until 10:30 at least! We chatted randomly… it’s such a waste of time!

不出意料之外,考官在約莫十點四十分回到集合地點。帶著學員應考的兩位教練迎上前去,短暫寒喧一番,我們就上了車。教練把鑰匙給了我,「妳先考!」
The examiner returned around 10:40, as I have expected. There’re two coaches from my driving school. They went up to greet the examiner and chatted a bit with her. In a while we were all about to get onto the car. The coach gave me the key, “You’re the first!”

說不緊張是假的,不過確實也比預期中來得鎮定。車子一開出去,是條筆直的道路,速限每小時九十公里,油門也就得踩得猛一點,只是我想都沒想,一開出去就直接進了左側車道,兩秒鐘以後回過神來,意識到自己做了一件很糟糕的事,方向燈一打趕快切到右線車道(運氣好的是,平時交通頗為繁忙的路上,竟然一台車子都沒有),眼角一瞄,看到教練猛力打手勢向右的右手…
Though I was nervous, I was much calmer than I thought. There’s a straight long street right after I got out with 90/km speed limit. I just had to run. I didn’t think too much and went directly into the left lane. In two seconds I realized I did something bad, turned on the front indicator and went into the right lane. (I was lucky that there’s no car around. It’s normally a busy street.) I had a glimpse of my right side and saw the coach trying to tell me “keep the right” with his right hand…

接下來一切順利,約莫十五分鐘以後,按照考官指示把車子停了下來,我的義大利駕照就這麼到手了!過一會兒輪到其他學員考試的時候,教練口帶責備地說,「妳怎麼會這麼開法!如果是嚴格一點的考官,大概就要妳重考了。妳的運氣真好。」
Things went smoothly afterward. In 15 minutes I was told to park the car and signed my name. I got my license! When the examiner went to the other car for the next exam, I was told by the coach that “how dare you drive that way! If she’s a bit stricter on you, you’d probably have to re-do it again. You’re so lucky!”

回到家,米奇開始到處打電話告知眾親友我拿到駕照的消息。義大利人對於這種事的恭賀也真是好玩,他們說「路上多了一個海盜」,還有人說我得請杯飲料或開香檳,不過因為最近截稿期,這些有的沒有的慶祝,大概都是三月中以後的事情了!
Michele started to phone around telling people the news after we went back home. The Italian expression/congratulations for such thing is quite funny. They say, “there’s a new road hog on the street” (c’e’ una nuova pirata della strata). Some asked me for a drink or champagne, but all these celebrations are postponed until mid-March when I can finally take a break.

February 20, 2006

駕照 Driving License (IV)

十一月底從台灣回來,眼看這第二張學習駕照又只剩下兩個多月的效期。我們又跑了一趟駕訓班,要了駕駛教練的手機號碼,心想等我準備好,認為自己可以去考路考時,再跟駕駛教練密集上個幾堂課。
When I came back from Taiwan in late November, there’s only a bit more than two months of validity of my driving permit. We went to the driving school again, asking for the coach’s mobile number, thinking to take some lessons when I’d be ready for exam.

中間,當然又經過了聖誕假期…
Of course, there’s Christmas vacation in the middle…

聖誕假期一過,心裡頭正想著「該不會要辦第三張學習駕照吧」的時候,駕訓班主任來了電話。主任向米奇解釋道,如果我再不考,連之前的筆試也不算數,一切都要從頭來!這通電話,是一月中的事情。
Right after Christmas vacation, when I started to think, “it wouldn’t be the case for the third driving permit”, the director of the driving school called. He explained to Michele that if I didn’t take the exam, I’d be disqualified. I even have to take the theory exam again and start from the very beginning. That was about mid-January.

這下子我終於緊張了起來,再怎麼懶惰,也不能對不起自己的荷包,尤其是從筆試重來又得多花個兩百多塊…路考特訓班於是開始!
I finally started to get nervous. Though I’m lazy, I wouldn’t waste my money, especially the exam will cost me another two hundred euros. So, my special training began.

這裡的考試不比台灣,一切都是在路上來真的,遇上挑剔的考官,連超車時有沒有轉頭瞄一下、雙手握方向盤的位置太低等,都可以是不讓人過關的理由,路邊停車、倒退停車、切入圓環、迴轉等都已經是小事,有些甚至還考超車,說不緊張是假的。
The driving exam in Italy is quite different to that of Taiwan. Italians do it “on the road”. If the examiner is picky, he’d pick on things as “turning the head before you surpass another car” or “hands’ position on steering wheel are too low” and you might fail the exam for these issues. Parking, entering the roundabout, U-turn is just nothing. Some even are asked to surpass another car during the exam. If I say I wasn’t nervous, I was lying…

學習駕照二月初到期,駕訓班也真的幫我排了到期日當日的考試。考試之前兩個星期,密集訓練於焉展開。每天至少跟教練上一堂課(半小時),一開始在駕訓班附近練車,過了幾天,上課時間變成一小時,把車子開到路考的可能路段熟悉路況。除此之外,每天出門也都是由我開,還有幾個晚上把車子開到工業區,在偌大的停車場裡倒車練上各把小時(據說是要讓我習慣倒車時的方向)。
The driving permit is expired in early February. So my exam was arranged on the day of the expiration. Two weeks before the exam, my intensive training began. There’s at least one lesson (half hour) with the coach everyday. At the beginning we’re driving around the school. Few days later, time of lesson was increased to one hour and I was taken to the possible area of exam. Besides, when we went out I’d be the one who drove. There’re also some nights that Michele and I drove to the industrial area where I practiced backing my car for some hours. (Michele said it would make me get used to the reverse direction.)

這種練習方式,要人不熟悉也難。到了考試前一天,教練很有把握地跟我說,「絕對沒問題!」
Intensive training of this kind does work, and I really got used to driving. The day before the exam, the coach told me affirmatively “No problem!”

February 17, 2006

駕照 Driving License (III)

我的步調並沒有因為筆試過關而快了起來。報名當初的錯,就是馬上要求駕訓班幫忙代辦學習駕照,原本以為自己會馬上開始努力練車,卻沒想到那時看來遙遙無期的理論考試,讓我有了「反正沒有那麼快要考路考」的心態,車子也是愛練不練的…
I didn’t speed up after I passed the written exam. The “original mistake” I made was to ask the driving school to get my driving permit done, thinking that I would start to practice immediately. However, by that time I didn’t really know when I’d pass the theory exam and I always thought “it’s anyway not yet time for driving exam”, so I wasn’t really too enthusiastic about my practice.

筆試一過,我緊張了起來。算起來學習駕照大概還有兩個月左右的效期,不過中間又卡個匈牙利旅行,又遇上大家開始陸續度假的時間,炎炎夏日也讓人發懶,兩個月的時間就這麼一溜煙地過去了。
After I passed the exam, I started to get a bit nervous. The driving permit would be expired in about two months. But we’ve got a trip to Hungary in the middle and it’s also vacation time, which means everything is slowing down. I was also feeling lazy due to the hot weather. Time flied. Two months were gone.

學習駕照到期,我硬著頭皮去駕訓班又繳了一百多歐元,辦了第二張。那時辦事人員本來有問我,要不要試著考一次看看?試考?開什麼玩笑,我連換檔都還不太順呢!筆試通過以後只有兩次路考機會,我可不想為了練習就這麼浪費掉一次。
The driving permit was expired and I just had to go to the driving school to get my second driving permit, which cost me more than a hundred bucks! I was asked if I would like to “try” to take the exam and see if I’d pass. She must be kidding! I was still having problem changing from one gear to another. Every person will have only two chances after she/he passes the theory exam, and I wouldn’t waste it just for “practice”!

辦了第二張學習駕照,我就開始認真的嗎?答案當然是沒有。稿子趕得如火如荼,炎夏熱得我寧可在家看電腦也不願意出去頂著大太陽練車。等到天氣宜人了些,我卻又回了台灣一趟,這拖功可是了得。
So, I started to get more serious after I got the second driving permit? Of course not! I was busy with my work, and the weather was so hot that I’d rather stay home in front of the computer. When the weather started to get more agreeable, I went back to Taiwan for a month. Guess I just didn’t want to do it and tried my best to postpone it as much as possible.

不過話說回來,這期間練車次數雖少,卻也讓我逐漸意識到之前在台灣用駕訓班的爛車子練車所留下的後遺症。駕訓班的老爺車,讓我習慣了換檔時得快速把離合器放開(不然會熄火),等到我開始開「一般的正常車」,換檔時也理所當然地迅速把離合器放開,車子自然也就一頓一頓地走。一開始我還沒有意識到問題到底在哪裡,等到過了幾個月上手以後,逐漸抓到了離合器和油門踩放的時間點,才猛然發現問題之所在。
In any case, even though I didn’t practice too much, I still got to realize what kind of strange habits I’ve picked up when I was driving the old car in the driving school in Taiwan. The very car I used in Taiwan is really an old one. When I change the gear, I have to let go the clutch really fast otherwise it would die. So when I started to drive “normal car”, I automatically let go the clutch soon after I change the gear. You just imagine how it’s like if you’re the one in the car. At the beginning I didn’t really realize where the problem was, but after a few months I gradually got to feel the balance between the clutch and accelerator and the timing of it. Thinking back, I then discovered what the problem was.

February 15, 2006

駕照Driving License (II)

2004年十一月的某一天,我們和賣車的鄰居一起去了代書和公證人那兒簽名,從那一刻起,我正式從無車階級晉升成有車階級,考駕照的事也就變的更刻不及緩。不過因為再沒多久就是聖誕假期,我們於是決定等到假期過後再去報名。
One day in November 2004, we went to sign the documents together with our neighbor at the allograph and notary. At the very moment I signed, I was “upgraded” to car owner. The issue to get my driving license was even more urgent. However, Xmas was arriving in a short while and it’s vacation time. So we decided to go to the driving school after the vacation.

在報名之前,就已經向一些朋友問過考駕照的事,大部分搬到義大利來的台灣人(或外國人),都是參加理論口試(因為據說口試比較簡單),我身邊沒有任何外國人參加過筆試。很自然地,大家也都建議我考口試,唯一唱反調的是米奇。
Before I went to the driving school, I asked around with my friends for more information. Most Taiwanese (or foreigners) who move to Italy choose to do oral exam (it is said to be easier) and no foreigners I know went to written exam. Naturally, they all recommended me to choose the oral one. Michele was the only one who’s against this idea.

大部分義大利人也覺得筆試不容易,因為其中常常出現一些陷阱,試卷上的十大題內各有三小題,應考者得針對每一題敘述的對錯來進行判斷,至多只能犯四個錯誤。儘管如此,米奇卻覺得我只要肯花時間去讀書,多做考題,筆試過關絕對不是難事。
Most Italians find theory exam difficult. There’re always some traps and they do play with words, trying to confuse you. On the exam paper there’re ten columns and there’re three questions in each column. One has to judge whether the description of each question is right or wrong and can only make up to four errors. Even though, Michele thought that if I would spend some time preparing myself for it, it wouldn’t be too difficult for me to pass the exam.

在剛開始去駕訓班上理論課的時候,我並沒有確實告訴老師我到底要考口試和筆試,至少在第一個月我得觀望一下,看看準備的方式如何。這種課程的學員流動率很大,不過大體上每次上課都有十個人左右,一個小時的時間裡,老師花半小時講解當日主題,另外的半小時則針對考題來做複習。
When I started the theory course, I didn’t tell the teacher what I was up to exactly. I told him I had to observe the situation in the first month and see how I could prepare myself for it. People come and go in this kind of courses, but in the average there’re about ten students in the classroom. During the one-hour class, thirty minutes are spent to explain the theme of the day and the rest for Q&A.

每個星期三堂課,加上盡職的老師偶爾還會在星期六下午替口試生加課,我一下子就跟老師混熟了。開始上課以後過沒兩個星期,老師又問了我一次想要參加口試還是筆試,我照例給了個「我還沒決定」的答案,他卻開始跟米奇一樣,認為我應該可以考筆試。
There’re three classes a week, and sometimes an extra hour for students participating in oral exam in Saturday afternoon. So the teacher got to know me in quite a short while. Two weeks after I started, he asked me again whether I’d take oral exam or not. I still told him “I’m undecided” but he started to think that I should be able to do the written one.

適合筆試或口試,其實跟個性有關。我自己其實傾向於筆試,畢竟從小到大被訓練成考試機器,只要是考題範圍有限的東西,向來都難不倒我。再三斟酌之下,我決定參加筆試,也終於在五月去參加了筆試,滿分過關。
Suitable for written or oral exam, it’s a matter of personality. Honestly speaking, I was more for the written exam since the very beginning. I’ve been taking exams since a young age. As long as there’s a limited area for the exam, it’s not a big issue. After thinking and rethinking, I decided to take the written exam. I was sent to the exam in May and got through it errorless.

February 12, 2006

駕照 Driving License (I)

在台灣的時候,從來也沒有想到有一天我也得要開車。大學一年級的時候雖然去上過駕訓班,不過卻因為筆試時間怎麼排都會撞到實驗課,後來索性也不去考試,反正老爸也擺明了「即使妳拿到駕照也不幫妳買車」,拿了駕照沒車開,自然也就沒什麼心情去考試。
When I was in Taiwan, I never imagined that one day I’d just have to drive. I went to the driving school during the first year of university. However, the time of written exam was always during my lab/experiment sessions that eventually I just gave up the exam itself. Anyway my dad also told me frankly that even if I got the driving license he wouldn’t get me a car. Since I’d probably get the license without even a chance to use it, I didn’t have much “mood” to have it done.

後來搬到義大利來,就知道糟糕了…維琴察這個小城市不比台北,加上我們又不住市中心,出門要不是得靠一個小時一班的公車,不然就得開車。靠著老公當司機的日子過了一年多,直到老公第一次出差,要做什麼事情都得要勞煩到其他人接送,我才真的有了考駕照的念頭。
When I moved to Italy, I knew immediately that I’ve made a bad choice… I mean, about not getting the driving license before. Vicenza is a small city and is not as convenient as a metropolitan city like Taipei. In addition, we live in suburbs that we either have to take the bus that passes by every hour or drive when we go out. So, Michele became my personal driver. Some time later, Michele went abroad for business and left me at home all alone. It’s the very first time that I had to bother other people for whatever I wanted to do. I then started to think seriously about getting the driving license.

沒多久,從羅馬辦公室那邊知道台灣駕照可以直接轉換成義大利駕照的消息,那時剛好因為一個案子回台灣待了三個月,也就順便把駕照給考上了。回到義大利來的時候,馬上去了這邊的監管處詢問換照事宜,這才發現,因為我已經在義大利拿到居留權,而台灣駕照是在那之後才拿到的,所以我的台灣駕照並不能直接轉換,不論如何,這個駕照考試在義大利是考定了!知道這消息,還真有點晴天霹靂…不過規定就規定,是我自己不知道規則,也只好摸摸鼻子走人。
Soon, we got to know from the Taiwanese representative office in Rome that Taiwanese driving license can be converted into Italian one without taking exam, and I happened to go back to Taiwan for a project, so I finally had the exam done. When I came back, we went to the Motorizzazione to inquire the information about license conversion. I was then told that because I’ve got the license after I was approved as a resident in Italy, I anyway have to do the driving exam in Italy. I was disappointed but nothing I can do about it. So we left.

那之後我也沒有馬上開始上這邊的駕訓班,畢竟手上一直有事情要忙,總是有藉口可以推託…一直到2004年五月,事情有了轉機。那時剛好有鄰居要賣車,是一台天藍色的Twingo,雖然我並不喜歡這個顏色,不過因為價格不錯,大家又都說第一台車最好是買二手,所以沒多久米奇就把車鑰匙給拿了回來,不過當時因為一些文件問題,以及一些既定行程,這台車子真的上路,也是半年以後的事情了。
I didn’t start the driving school immediately, since I’ve always got a thousand things to do and there’re always excuses… at least not until May 2004. Our neighbor wanted to sell her old car. It’s a light blue Twingo. I didn’t like the color too much but since the price is acceptable and everyone tells me that it’s got to be a second-hand car as my first car so I wouldn’t feel too sorry if I bump it or what. So Michele got the car key home some days later. However, due to some paperwork and my scheduled trips, the car really got onto the road more or less half year later.

February 06, 2006

【實際、食記】記吃牛

第一次吃到佛羅倫斯一帶著名的丁骨牛排(la bistecca fiorentina),是在老哥剛結完婚跑到義大利來度蜜月的那一年。那次旅行,開著車去了佛羅倫斯、聖吉米安諾與席耶那等地,其中在佛羅倫斯待了兩天,六個饕客一起,自然免不了要品嘗一下當地佳餚。米奇想讓我試這牛排想很久了,終於在民宿老闆娘的推薦下,我們來到了一家離新聖母馬利亞教堂(Santa Maria Novella)不遠的餐館。



第一次吃這牛排,未免不被它的份量給嚇一跳。半公斤起跳的份量,讓食量不大的我好生害怕,點菜時只敢點牛排,而且還很擔心等一會兒吃不完。然而,等到炭火香烤的牛排端上來,我早就被滿室牛排香燻得飢腸轆轆,馬上捲起袖子準備大快朵頤一番。那第一口的感覺,實在是很難形容…恰到好處的熟度,入口即化的口感,油卻不膩的鮮美,讓人一口接著一口,不知不覺中一塊半公斤的牛排就去了三分之二,直到開始在牛骨上剔肉的程度,手拙的我才停了下來,把剩下的部分交給米奇玩耍去(註一)。

自此之後,這家餐館就成了我到佛羅倫斯時必然會去報到的地點,慢慢地,老闆和廚師也就把我們的臉給記了起來。很自然地,我們也會帶朋友或推薦朋友到這家店去品嘗價格合理的美食…只是,不是每個人都這麼有口福的!

話說希臘好友蜜兒多在佛羅倫斯附近工作的那段期間,某次我們相約週末在佛羅倫斯碰面,準備好好血拼兼八卦一番。到了晚餐時間,我順口問了蜜兒多要不要去吃牛排,還沒有試過這牛排的蜜兒多已經聽我講了很多次,當然不願意錯過這個機會,我們於是從聖母百花大教堂順路慢慢往餐館移動。只是,當我們到了餐館所在的那條街時,整條街出奇地陰暗,我心裡頭納悶了起來,平常來的時候,總是有很多人在餐館門口排隊呢…整條街來來回回走了好幾遍,我開始起了疑竇,難道餐館搬家?還是關門了?打電話給米奇確認我沒走錯路的時候,離餐館五十公尺的地方,剛好有位住在樓上的先生開了門往上走,我衝上前去把他攔了下來,「妳說La Sostanza嗎?他們週末關門啦!」餐廳週末關門?這我還是頭一次聽到…我和米奇後來去的時候還特地問了老闆,沒想到老闆很若無其事的說:「我們也要過週末啊!」

去年底,在德國唸書的好友利用聖誕節假期到佛羅倫斯和羅馬旅遊,我也是推薦他們到這間餐館。只是,連著好幾天打電話都打不通,只好把地址給了他們,請他們自己去碰碰運氣。晚上好友傳來簡訊,說他們有吃到牛排,不過餐廳改名字了…我心想,不會吧?!

幾個星期以後,我們到佛羅倫斯看群牛遊行(Cow Parade),在出發的前三天(也就是星期二),我們又不死心地打了電話去試試,這次播通了。原本打算星期五去看展,然後晚上去吃牛排,不過老闆竟然說星期五中午晚上全滿,只剩下星期三中午有兩個位置…吃牛排也是此行目的之一,怎可錯過,於是我和米奇就硬生生地把佛羅倫斯之行從星期五改到星期三,原本打算邀朋友同行的計畫也一併取消。

我們隔天一大早出發,一切似乎都進行地還算順利,不消十一點,我們已經進了佛羅倫斯市區。然而,我們怎麼都沒算到,會不小心在佛羅倫斯時尚展(Pitti Moda)的時候來到這裡,光是找停車位就找了將近兩個小時,差一點就打算直接開車回家了。找車位的同時,也打了電話告知老闆,我們會晚到…不幸中的大幸是,我們還真在市中心找到了停車位,雖然遲了半小時到餐館,不過由於事先有打電話告知,位置還是被保留了下來。

這頓飯足足讓我吃了一個半小時,牛排吃完以後還來了一客甜點,將近兩點半我們才起身打算走人。結帳時順便問了一下老闆,怎麼聖誕假期期間電話都打不通,老闆神色自若地說:「我們都去度假了啊!」一般來說,聖誕節期間是餐廳大賺錢的日子,不只遊客多,連本地人外食的機率也比較高,在這段期間關門,簡直是把銀子往外推,這樣子的開店邏輯還真是特別,也讓我覺得老闆實在很瀟灑(註二)。

有機會到佛羅倫斯,肯定得去嚐一下這種丁骨牛排的鮮美。
  • 註一:米奇是用刀叉的高手,不管是魚蝦肉骨到了他手上,只要給他一付刀叉,他都可以吃得乾乾淨淨,而且他還管這叫遊戲。所以我只要遇上任何得要動手拿起來啃或?的東西,習慣性就把整盤交給他了…
  • 註二:義大利有很多餐館會在星期二或星期三休息,休週日的當然有,不過休週末和休聖誕假期的,到目前為止我只遇上這家。
  • 註三:年初時看新聞,說佛羅倫斯丁骨牛排解禁,這才讓我意識到,原來之前吃到的都是非法牛排…因為之前狂牛症的關係,帶骨(髓)的丁骨牛排被禁了幾年,一直到今年才正式解禁。
  • 註四:給想要去的朋友
    Trattoria Sostanza Troia S.A.S. Trattoria
    50123 Firenze (FI) - 25/R, VIA DEL PORCELLANA
    tel: 055 212691