Something about my life in Italy: Pomegranate in the backyard 後院的石榴樹

從小生長在都市叢林的我，壓根兒沒想要住在有花園的房子裡，一方面是因為動手整理花園是一件耗時費力的苦差事，一方面是害怕植物所引來的各種小蟲子，不過若要歸根究底，著實是因為自己沒有養植物的「綠手指」，自覺無法妙手生花。

剛搬到義大利來，就被自家後院的格局給嚇了一跳。為了要讓家裡四隻寶貝貓有玩耍挖土的空間，後院大部分空間實際上是草皮，加上兩株婆婆送的玫瑰、一棵粗壯的月桂樹、配上後院中央的石榴樹，把小小六平方公尺的空間擠地好不熱鬧，若不定時修剪，常常是枝葉茂密，我又不甘於自己去做苦差事，總得要等到兩個人都有時間，一年往往整理不到兩三次，後院成了貓的天堂，我也總覺得後院是「叢林」。

縱然如此，每年還是會有令人興奮的季節。除了隨著季節變化而盛開的玫瑰與石榴花，一到入秋，看到石榴樹開始結起果子來，心中的興奮指數也隨著往上升。和市面上拳頭大的石榴相比之下，我家石榴樹結的果子足足大了兩倍以上，每年都可以結上三十幾顆碩大美味的石榴，除了自己享用以外，也成了我們餽贈親友的好伴手。

石榴是我搬到義大利以後才認識的水果，從前對於石榴的認知，只是一個出現在書本上的名詞，連圖片都沒看過，就別說嚐過石榴的滋味了。石榴的英文“pomegranate”源自法文，意為「多子的蘋果」，這名字也實在傳神。還記得第一次跟著米奇到後院採石榴，迫不及待地拿了一顆進屋，掰開以後，一顆顆鮮豔欲滴、有著透明至紅色漸層的石榴子映入眼中，讓人好不興奮，嚐在嘴裡，酸酸甜甜好似初戀的滋味，令人難以忘懷。只是，將一顆顆石榴子慢慢清理出來，也得要些功夫，第一顆弄完已經讓人心浮氣躁，到頭來，還是得靠米奇的耐心與巧手，慢慢剝出一顆顆的石榴子。

朋友曾經問我，石榴怎麼吃？除了直接吃石榴子以外，做成石榴汁也是不錯的選擇，家裡其實也有專門用來榨石榴汁的器具。要不然，來道石榴鴨胸，或是做成冰淇淋，都是不錯的選擇。一般而言，只要是需要酸甜味的食譜，都可以加進石榴，再有點實驗精神，我就要開始著手將石榴創意入菜了！

本文原載於ARCH雅砌雜誌2004年12月號

Blessed...

孩子是天使


這幾天在某版討論區上，又看到網友貼上了94年普立茲新聞特寫攝影獎得主凱文卡特（Kevin Carter）那張瀕死女童的照片與討論，讓我多愁善感了起來…又回想到今年在台灣看完世界新聞攝影展的感想…

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趁著到誠品聽演講前的空閒，到旁邊的世界新聞攝影展走了一遭，心情豈是百感交集所能形容。

這次的攝影展，共有來自124個國家、4176位攝影記者所拍攝的63093張相片中，選出六十二位記者所拍攝的兩百多張作品。從這些影像中，參觀者可以一窺過去一整年的世界重大新聞，陳述環保、政治、科技、藝術等面向。

踏進明亮的展場，就因為眼前所見的各種影像而心感震懾，兩百多張照片中，一半以上所呈現的，是世界的黑暗面，映入眼中各種戰亂、病痛等的照片，配合著場內不停重複播放的「Amazing Grace」一曲，乍看之下讓人感到諷刺，心中情緒激昂，眼淚竟然就這麼奪眶而出，連逛到後半段主題較為輕鬆的部分，竟也無心觀賞，只因透過這些記者的眼睛所看到的世界感到悲傷。

我再次回到展場前半部分，靜下心來，聆聽著音樂，心裡的悲傷難過雖然不減，然而另一種聲音在告訴我，感謝家人、感謝社會、也感謝國家，讓我不至於去面對世界上這樣的苦痛，至少，我還生活在平和的環境中，是上天予我的恩賜。

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行有餘力則助人，這一陣子看到台灣有許多慈善活動，有空去看看吧！

Shepherd and Sheep

今天難得出了大太陽，晴朗的星期六，我卻得要做在電腦前趕稿爬格子... 正午十分，去廚房泡杯茶，隱隱約約聽到窗外傳來羊咩咩的聲音，打開窗一看，羊兒們成群結隊地從我家門前的大馬路經過...牧羊人又帶著羊兒下到山腳來避寒了！這種冬日景象，雖然在搬過來幾年以後已經見怪不怪，不過每次看到還是會令人會心一笑...

改變的年代--持續性的革新: 第九屆威尼斯建築雙年展評論 (原載於藝術家雜誌2004年10月號)

Taiwan Pavilion in Venice Biennale 2004


夏末時節，各項重大的藝文活動於威尼斯陸續展開，熱鬧的影展於九月初拔得頭籌，名人影星把影展炒得正火熱，建築展也趁勢盛大開幕，接著還有戲劇雙年展，以及英國畫家泰納、義大利藝術家提也波洛、西班牙大師達利特展等，九月的水都，一如以往，仍然是鎂光燈焦點所在。

以「蛻變」﹙METAMORPH﹚為主題的第九屆威尼斯建築雙年展，在著名瑞士籍建築師科特˙福斯特（Kurt W. Forster）的策展領導之下，於九月九日盛大開幕。威尼斯的雙年展，向來都是義國文化界的盛事，自九月以來，各種藝文雜誌報導便陸續發稿出版，逐漸替雙年展暖身，在開幕以後，更是獲得各大報文化版的青睞，紛紛以專題方式詳盡地報導有關本次建築雙年展的開幕絮語。

在開幕前，部分義籍媒體仍然對建築雙年展的目的提出質疑，認為整個建築雙年展，終究只會變成新計畫的展示場所，對建築這門學科、這門藝術，並沒有太重大的意義。然而，在福斯特的努力下，他所選擇的主題「蛻變」成就了一個包容廣泛的架構，可以將各式專案、計畫等囊括在其羽翼之下，呈現出它們如何循著原本的基礎，逐步適應、修正後的過程。雖然這個主題在一開始並沒有受到業界的廣大迴響，有些甚至抱持著懷疑的態度，然而在開幕以後，各大媒體與評論紛紛予以創新、革命性等正面肯定。

在義國境內，還有另一些批評的聲浪，以為這次建築雙年展並沒有提供義籍建築師足夠的發揮空間。對於這樣的觀點，策展人福斯特以為，義籍建築師的作品，佔了整體的五分之一，不可謂是不高，另一方面，此次建築展的中心目的，是作為一種資訊交流的方式，提供對話的空間，而不是單純的義大利建築展，應以更為宏觀的角度，呈現出全球建築界的新興發展。

在正式開幕以後，義國境內各主要藝文雜誌，紛紛以《改變的年代》的標題，來敘述、解釋這次的建築雙年展的主題。就如同策展人福斯特所言，「二十多年前，建築界隨著後現代主義的軌跡逐漸轉變，似乎是很自然的事情…然而，後現代主義信徒歸本溯源的信念，卻沒有反映在當代的發展，事實上，建築這門學科正在朝著預料之外的方向改變…」因此，這次的展覽，也可以被視為一種回顧，尋訪過去二十年間建築界的部分潮流與趨勢，藉此探討當代建築在理論上與實際設計上的重大轉變，以及新興建築科技的使用方式。

福斯特個人的視野與信念，是要捨棄直線與直角，以更具有機性質的設計、更多的曲線來取而代之，而電腦科技的發展，直接促成此種可能性，在近代建築設計上逐漸被發揚光大，這樣的過程，也就成了福斯特策展的中心思想。在展覽中，福斯特刻意避免了傳統的詮釋觀點，以更顯而易見的方式來提出公開、革新性的比較，來見證建築之為生命有機體的演進，以及其轉變的能力。換句話說，策展人福斯特並非按照固有的分類方式來呈現，而是以更全面性的觀點、更宏觀的視野來看待之，以藉此詮釋出各種改變背後的邏輯。「蛻變」這個主題確實提供了絕佳的架構，讓本次雙年展能夠納入許多正在發展中的計畫，提出新穎的概念與新興的潮流。

福斯特希望觀眾能以開放的態度來觀展，隨時準備迎接不同的展覽手法與刺激。整體展覽中，並沒有預先設計的參觀路線，在手法上也盡量避免平面呈現，採用立體模性與實體架構的方式。部分的展示，目的在於顯示出建築師改變整體景觀的能力。例如＜超計畫＞展示區域內，馬力歐˙貝里尼為義大利杜林市設計的文化中心、庫柏˙辛門布勞為法國里昂所設計的Mus?e des Confluences、美國建築師事務所Morphosis所設計的紐約奧運村等，都能戲劇性地改變整體區域的景觀。本次展覽採用了比以往更為豐富的媒介方式作為詮釋手法，目的是要盡可能地讓觀眾理解各個專案，促成觀眾的具體印象，避免此類展示流於模糊抽象的通病，這也是他在展示中之所以《回顧》部分建築史之故，藉此達到一種「與現實的連結」。

得獎名單，則是眾所矚目的另一個焦點。在宣布今年的終生成就獎花落誰家之前，就已經有許多媒體預測，這個獎會落入彼得˙艾森曼﹙Peter Eiseman﹚的手中。評審團揭曉得獎名單以後，各大媒體爭相引用評審團的評論，表示「艾森曼是建築界偉大的思想家，其先知卓見持續引導業界向前邁進…艾森曼本身就是傑出的建築家，豐富的創造力與發明，絕對可被視為建築界在第三個千禧年的導師…」艾氏的得獎，可說是眾望所歸。被獲選為國家館最佳裝置的比利時館，以題為「金夏沙:︰意象城市」﹙Kinshasa, The Imaginary City﹚的展示，以前瞻性的視野，「呈現出傳統策略與典型建築方法並不一定是最佳的解決方式，提出認同、社會與硬體等層面都在經歷形變的概念，與事者必須予以新的定義，發展新的解決之道」，出乎意料地獲得評審團的青睞。

從開幕到正式開放給民眾參觀之間的三天，開放各家媒體先行入場一覽，義國的全國性報紙媒體《Il Gazzettino》邀請義籍建築師法蘭西斯可˙達科針對整個建築雙年展表達其個人看法。達科特別針對位在軍火庫Corderie的主題展提出見解，他以為：「…長達三百多公尺的展示空間裡，可說集合了各國、各年齡層建築師的作品，大多是非常知名或極具創新性質的建築設計…這些充斥著聚合線、曲線型、格網的自由形作品，似乎歌頌著建築世界的多樣性、持續性的革新、以及各種令人詫異、驚喜的設計，然而將這些作品全部放在一個長達三百多公尺的空間一同展示，似乎無法產生加值的效果，因為作品的相似性質，讓整個展區不停地重複著相同的語言，反而無法顯示出個別設計的特質，互相遮蓋了彼此的光芒…倘若將日本館以＜御宅族＞為主題的展示，和軍火庫Corderie的主題展放在一起看，後者所展示的各項作品，以某種角度而言，似乎可以被視為日本〝御宅族〞文化的產物…。」

在談到綠園城堡的國家館展覽時，達科則給了一個非常高的評價，認為各個國家館在展示上的多樣性，足以讓人大開眼界。他概略地對各館提出自身看法：除了以＜御宅族＞為主題的日本館以外，英國館豐富的趣味也不容錯過，德國館則比英國館略遜一籌，不過仍足以呈現出德國建築界的發展與代表作；相形之下，法國館欠缺建設性的展示，西班牙館則讓人看不出個所以然，在本屆國家館中表現差強人意。達科也特地針對義大利館，提出嚴厲的批評：「…整體看來，傳統設計似乎消失無蹤…整個義大利館看起來大而無當，而且雜亂無章，以藝術性的角度來看待義籍建築師的作品，嚴格說起來，不過是一種懷舊、回顧而已…雖然建築雙年展是我們一窺世界建築發展的一扇窗，能夠滿足觀眾的好奇心，不可能也無法將所有名家設計一網打盡，不過我還是要說，這裡少了許多義大利建築師的足跡，許多更具有代表性的作品，並沒有被包括在本次雙年展中…。」

即使有達科此等專業人士提出其負面批評，大部分媒體還是予以相當正面的肯定。一般以為，建築雙年展的對象雖然並不如藝術雙年展或電影展般地廣泛，僅將目標對準小眾的建築界與文化評論，然而，第九屆唱作俱佳的展示，必定會引起比預料中更為廣泛的迴響。

Something about Mimi

家裡有養寵物的，大概都會經過「老、病、死」的階段…
Whoever keeps pets at home will have to experience stages like “getting old”, “getting sick” and “eventual death”.

這一陣子，之所以寫不出文章，一方面是工作繁重，事實上，則是因為接踵而來的傷心事，讓我選擇更忙碌的生活，少點時間思考、難過。
Why didn’t I produce (or write) too many new articles during this period? Well… partly it’s because I am quite busy with work. However, the fact is… I’ve been keeping myself busy enough so that I don’t have time to think about too many sad happenings around me and get upset.

今年是灰暗的一年。一個朋友失去了至親的伴侶，另一個朋友的爸媽雙雙被診斷出癌症中末期，另一個朋友則因為心臟病猝死家中，家中四隻貓裡，也有一隻罹了惡性腫瘤，時日不多。
It has been a gray year for me. A friend lost her husband for cancer, another friend’s parents both got different kind of cancer, another friend passed away for undiscovered heart problem, and one of the four “beasts” at home is also suffering for tumor and actually doesn’t have too much to live.

咪咪，一直是家中四隻貓裡，最不得我人緣的一隻，不過也是最像貓的一隻。自從夏末被診斷為腦部惡性腫瘤之後，我們便開始過著每四五天帶著她到醫院打針的日子，而隨著她病情惡化，臉部變形、臭味四溢，家裡總是迷漫著一股惱人的惡臭。安樂死？如果看到她身上極高的求生意志，任誰也下不了手，替她做出這了令人惋惜的決定。也正因為如此，我們也就這麼拖著，等到哪天讓她自己決定。
Mimi is my least favored among the four cats at home. But she is the most “cattish” cat among the four. The vet announced that Mimi got an aggressive tumor in the brain in later summer. Since then, we take her to the vet for injection every four to five days. Time passes by while her condition is getting worse. Her face gradually deforms, and we started to have a really bad smell at home. Euthanasia? If one sees her strong will to survive, I believe that he/she wouldn’t really decide for her. So we just try to endure all the inconveniences, until the day when she decides herself.

同情心轉化成溺愛，她一日一日變得更為嬌蠻任性。一口一口啜著專門給小貓喝的奶，她堅持你要在旁邊陪著她吃飯，喜歡待在老公懷裡，更愛在我們吃飯的時候爬到老公的肩膀上四處張望。種種我以前無法忍受的行徑，都因為她時日不多而忍了下來。幾年相處下來總是有感情，即使她向來都無法受到我的青睞，我想，我還是會為她掉下傷心的眼淚。
From sympathy to spoiling, she is getting even more demanding and stubborn. Sip by sip, she drinks the special milk for kittens. She insists that you have to stay beside when she eats. She likes to stay warm in Michele’s arm, and climb onto Michele’s shoulder to stay high when we eat. All the behaviors that I couldn’t bear in the past become bearable because I know she won’t be with us for long. It’s been some years since I moved here. Even though she’s not my favorite, I think I will still shed my tear when she’s gone.

Something about my life in Italy - Gelato

搬到義大利這個美食天堂，僅僅四年的光景，然而我在周遭朋友的耳濡目染之下，一張嘴越來越難伺候，義大利麵一定要煮成有咬勁的al dente，義式燉飯要用carnaroli的米來煮才夠味，咖啡非得要用從威尼斯老店買回家的特選阿拉比卡種原豆，就連吃個冰淇淋，都得是傳統方法做出來的原汁原味。
Time flies. I've moved to Italy for four years. With all the "bad" influences I've had around, my appetite is getting more and more difficult. Pasta has to be cooked "al dente", risotto has to be prepared with carnaroli rice, coffee has to be the "sposa dell' arabica" from my favorite cafe' in Venice, and ice cream has to be the ones that are made with artisan ways.

〝冰淇淋之角〞是我吃遍四方各種美味冰淇淋以後選出來的第一名。每個星期，我們必定會專程開個二十多分鐘的車，就為了店主瑪莉芮所精心製作的各種美味。在威欠札這一帶，東西方異國聯姻仍屬少見，店主夫婦瑪莉芮與葛拉齊安諾兩人笑容可掬又熱情的態度，加上我那口子健談開朗的個性，我們很快便熟稔了起來，從一開始的點頭之交，成了談美食、聊生活的好友。
All these years we've been tasting all the possible ice cream shops wherever we go. After all the tests, "L'Angolo del Gelato" is my No.1 regarding ice creams. Every week, we drive about 20 minutes to get to the shop, just to taste the variety of ice creams that Marine makes. A mixed couple like us is still rare in Vicenza. Friendly and enthusiastic as Marine and her husband Graziano are, we soon become more and more familier with each other, from just acquaintance into close friends.

瑪莉芮的那雙巧手，是冰淇淋之角最重要的“資產”。她的冰淇淋創作，是生活靈感與巧手實驗的結合。喜愛烹飪的瑪莉芮，常常收看各種介紹美食的烹飪節目，從中尋求線索開發新口味。每次新口味一出現，就到了我最愛的猜謎時間。有些名稱是顯而易見的，不過，也常常出現那些天馬行空的稱呼，光看名稱，既讓人猜不透也摸不著邊，只得用行動來體會，瑪莉芮這次又加了什麼好料的在裡頭！也正因為如此，冰淇淋之角在瑪莉芮的創意與巧手下，總會出現一些與其他地方不一樣的口味，不論是時令水果、烈酒、各式蛋糕西點、甚至於嬰兒餅乾，到了這裡，都成了入口即化的冰淇淋，私房特色讓店裡常常是高朋滿座，顧客絡繹不絕，好不熱鬧。
The most important "property" of the shop is Marine and her hands. Her ice creams are combinations of inspiration in life and creative experiments. She enjoys cooking and watching various gourmet programs, and looks for clues and inspiration from everyday life. Every time when new flavor appears in the shop, it's time for a quiz. Some are obvious and easy to guess, and some are just difficult that you don't have a clue from the name. The only way to know is to taste it so that we can try to understand what she addes inside this time. For this reason, there are many "specialties" in her shop, something that you won't find in other places. Seasonal fruits, liquors, cakes and cookies all become mouth-melting ice cream. It's quite a popular place and people always come here to look for something special.

妙的是，瑪莉芮本人並不嗜甜食，更不愛吃冰淇淋，小時候曾經因為不像其他小朋友一樣愛吃冰，還讓媽媽誤以為瑪莉芮是因為零用錢不夠，才沒去買冰吃。某次閒聊之際，瑪莉芮娓娓道來她開冰淇淋店的心路歷程。六年前的某一天，瑪莉芮偕夫婿兩人至米蘭探親，當時這個親戚剛剛獲得一位有幾十年經驗的冰淇淋師傅傳授秘訣，在米蘭開了一間頗受歡迎的冰淇淋店，盛情難卻之下，瑪莉芮品嘗了最經典的焦糖義式奶酪口味，一吃之下驚為天人，連不愛吃冰淇淋的她，都為其手工與用料實在而大為感動。回到維欠札，左試右試就是再也找不到相似的口感，在親友鼎力相助之下，瑪莉芮決定開起冰淇淋店，將她心中最好吃的冰淇淋，帶到她所居住的城市。
The funny thing is, Marine is not very found of sweete, neither ice creams. When she was young, she didn't ask for ice creams like other children and even made her mom worry that Marine didn't have enough pocket money to get an ice cream she would like to have. One time, Marine told us the story regarding where the idea of an ice cream shop came from. Six years ago, Marine went to Milan with Graziano to visit a relative who just opened a popular ice cream shop in Milan. Trying not to embarrass her relative, Marine tasted the ice cream in his shop even if she doesn't like it. She tried the classic "panna cotta" and was surprisingly touched by the texture, material and quality of the ice cream. After she came back to Vicenza, she couldn't find anything that could bring her that special sensation, and decided to bring this No.1 ice cream in her mind back to where she lives.

有朋自遠方來，我們必定會帶去品嘗瑪莉芮的冰淇淋，吃過的人往往也都贊不絕口。當瑪莉芮和葛拉齊安諾得知我將以冰淇淋之角為題撰文時，還打趣到，如果哪一天有誰拿著這本雜誌、這篇文章來到店裡，不論吃多少買多少一率五折招待。真有那麼一天，你若是恰巧到了威欠札，帶著這篇文章走一趟冰淇淋之角，絕對會得到店主熱情的招呼與擁抱！
When friends come for a visit, we always take them to Marine's shop to taste our favorite ice cream, and it's always appreciated. When Marine and Graziano got to know that I'd use their shop as the topic of my article for the magazine, they excitingly said that if someone brings a copy of the magazine with the article to the shop, she/he would receive 50% discount no matter how much she/he spends. If you come to Vicenza, bring a copy of the article (on the magazine) to the L'Angolo del Gelato", you'd definitely receive a warm welcome and hug from Marine and Graziano.

L’ANGOLO DEL GELATO
地址：PIAZZETTA SAN MARCO, CREAZZO, VICENZA

本文原載於ARCH雅砌雜誌2004年11月號
This article was originally published in the ARCH magazine (2004 Nov. issue) in Taiwan.

Fighting with Palu

天氣一變冷，跟寶貝貓的戰爭也開始了。
When it starts to get colder, the war with Palu starts.

家中最寶貝的貓兒，從小就有呼吸道的問題，入秋以來，常常就得面對氣喘加上打噴嚏的問題，狀況太糟糕的時候，我們就得要想辦法給藥吃。
Palu is the loveliest cat at home. He’s got respiratory problem since young. After entering autumn, asthma and sneezing become common stories. When it’s getting worse, we’ll always have to try to give him some medicine.

吃藥時的磨人性格，有時讓人很難捉摸。向來習慣用小湯匙吃藥的他，有一天突然決定不要用小湯匙吃了，老公只得把混著化毛膏的藥抹在自己手上，讓他舔著吃，偶爾，還得追著跑，求他吃藥。貓，就跟小孩子一樣。
He’s got a very difficult personality when he takes his medicine, and sometimes it’s quite difficult to handle. He used to take his medicine with a small spoon. One day, he decided that he doesn’t want it any more, and Michele has to put the creamy medicine on his finger for Palu to lick. Once in a while, he’ll have to follow Palu all around the house and beg him to take his medicine. Cats are like kids.

前兩天，他覺得老公的手指不好吃了，不論我們怎麼求他，就是不願舔一口。一氣之下，老公抓起他的前腳，就這麼把藥給抹了上去。貓兒無法忍受腳掌上的髒污，會想盡辦法把它清理乾淨。倔強如他，就看著他在屋裡跑來跑去，用力地甩著前腳，怎樣都不肯在我們面前舔一下藥，這樣的舉動也把我們搞火了，晚上睡覺時索性把房門一關，不讓他進來。這也真是找罪受，固執的他一整晚都在門外，三不五時抓一下門，打個噴嚏，讓人不得好眠，不過我們也沒有因此就讓步，房門關緊直到天明。
A couple days ago, Palu decided that Michele’s finger is not good any more, and just didn’t want his medicine no matter how we begged him. With anger, Michele grabbed his front paw and buttered the cream on his paw. Normally, cats can not stand dirty paws and will do anything to clean themselves. Stubborn as Palu is, he was running around the house, swinging and shaking so hard to get rid of the cream on the paw. No matter what, he didn’t want to lick his paw in front of us. We got so angry with him that we shut him outside our room in the night. He was beside our door the whole night, scratched the door and sneezed once in a while, and made it difficult for us to sleep. We didn’t surrender and keep the door shut until morning.

隔天早上，他一聽到老公打開房門走進廁所梳洗，咚咚咚地馬上跑去報到。老公順著要求把他抱到懷中，說時遲那時快，一到懷裡馬上打個大噴嚏幫老公洗臉，一溜煙就不見貓影。看樣子…這場人貓大戰大概還會繼續持續下去…至少到春天到來。
The next morning, he arrived the bathroom once he heard Michele moving. Michele picked him up according to his request. Guess what?! He sneezed on Michele’s face and ran away immediately. I guess this war between human and cat will go on for a while…at least until the arrival of spring.

Missing hot spring in Taiwan

住到國外以後，除了想念台灣的家人朋友與美食以外，到了冬天，還格外想念在台灣幾乎唾手可得的豪華溫泉享受。
After I moved abroad, the missing feelings about Taiwan not only direct toward family, friends and good food, I especially miss the luxury thermal spring that is so easily found there.

今年的秋天來地挺早，十月中而已，偶爾夜間已經有冬天的感覺，溫度可以降到七八度左右，這時，泡個暖呼呼的澡，成了一大享受。
Autumn arrived fairly early this year. It’s only mid-October, sometimes the temperature during the night is down to 7~8 degrees. At such a cold night, a nice bath is such an enjoyment.

每天坐上書桌開始上工以前，看看郵件、走訪各家報台、瀏覽一下幾個最愛的網站、翻翻電腦裡的照片，成了暖身動作，今天看看窗外灰暗的天空，身上已經穿著平時入冬才拿出來的毛衫，看到今年春季回台偕友泡溫泉的照片，不禁讓人暖上心頭。偌大的浴池裡漂著玫瑰花辦，花小錢就有如此高貴的享受，大概也只有台灣才會這麼方便。
Everyday, before I start working, it’s a routine to check my mailboxes, visit some friends’ sites, browse through some favorite sites, and review some photos in my computer. Looking at the gray sky outside the window and then the heavy sweater that I normally use in winter, the viewing of the photos that were taken during a trip for hot thermal spring with friends in the springtime warms my heart. Spending a little money for luxurious enjoyment, you’d have a big bathtub with rose petals afloat. It is in Taiwan that you’d find such convenience with little cost and short distance.

也許，年底回台，再來一次這樣的溫泉之旅，想著想著，身子也跟著暖了起來…
Maybe, when I go back to Taiwan at the end of the year, I’ll try to go for another trip like that. Just the thought of it warms me up…

Something about my life in Italy – Coffee

my "caffettiera napoletana"


日上三竿，從廚房裡飄來了咖啡香，碗公大的咖啡杯裝著滿滿的卡布奇諾，配上剛出爐的可頌麵包與餅乾，看著家裡的寶貝貓在窗台上曬太陽打滾，我的一天，就在咖啡香和奶香中開始。家中最受我所青睞的咖啡壺，並不是一般台灣人所熟知的濃縮咖啡機或摩卡壺，而是一種在我搬到義大利以後，無意間在廚房用品店裡看到的拿波里式咖啡壺。這種咖啡壺說穿了就是滴漏式咖啡，不過除了外觀和煮水方式不同以外，它所泡出來的咖啡，也比一般的滴漏式咖啡壺（機）來地濃些。濃縮咖啡無法滿足我的咖啡因需求，而平淡如水的美式咖啡又讓人覺得少了股香氛，早上起床又懶得開瓦斯爐用摩卡壺，取巧如我，也省下拿波里式咖啡壺煮水的方式，直接把電壺裡剛煮開的熱水到進去，一邊等著咖啡一滴一滴地濾入壺中，一邊聞著四處瀰漫的咖啡香，腦子也跟著手上的雜誌慢慢醒來。
Late morning, coffee smell from the kitchen, a big mug of cappuccino with some brioche or cookies, cats stretching under the sun on the windowsill, my day begins with the smell of coffee and milk. The coffee maker I’m using at home is not the moka or espresso machine that most Taiwanese are familiar with. It is a kind of coffee maker that I got to know after I moved to Italy. A “caffettiera napoletana” (Napoli style coffee maker) that I discovered in a tiny shop for kitchen utensils. To put it simple, it makes filter coffee, though the look and the preparation is slightly different. Besides, it makes stronger coffee than normal filter cups or machine. The quantity of espresso can not satisfy my “need” for caffeine, the “water-like” American coffee lacks some nice smell, and I am too lazy to turn on the fire to use moka in the morning. The Napoletana is the easiest way in the morning. Fill up the filter and then pour in boiling water from the kettle, I can read my magazines when I wait for my coffee, my brain starts to wake up along with the coffee smell that gradually fills up the whole kitchen.

義大利的咖啡，是早餐，是短暫的休息，也是餐後消化的好幫手。上班期間的小憩，逛街時的歇息，可以是休息室或吧裡一杯杯的濃縮咖啡。走進人來人往的咖啡店裡，向服務生點杯咖啡，站在吧台旁，看著服務生以幾近音樂性的手法，敲掉已經煮過的咖啡渣、放入新鮮磨好的咖啡粉、裝入咖啡機，不到兩分鐘，香濃的咖啡就在眼前。義大利人在吧裡喝咖啡，往往是五分鐘的事情，倘若問他們為什麼，則免不了惹來一陣訕笑，「喝這麼一杯小小的咖啡要多少時間？」是的，喝一杯濃縮咖啡要不了多少時間，價格也的確平價到令來自台灣的我感到訝異（一杯普通的濃縮咖啡大約是0.8歐元，卡普奇諾則在1.2歐元之譜），咖啡果然是義大利的國民飲料。
Coffee in Italy can be breakfast, short break in the day, and helper for digestion after meal. A break from work or some rest during shopping can be espresso in the resting area or in the bar. It is always busy in the bar. One walks in the bar, orders the coffee, stands beside and waits. It is almost “musical” the way the bartender prepares the coffee. Within minutes, a nice espresso is ready. The culture of drinking coffee in Italy is different than that in Taiwan. Drinking a cup of espresso is something within minutes, and it’s not something or some place that you can spend the whole afternoon. It doesn’t take much time for a cup of coffee, and the price is “amazingly” cheap for those who do not live in Italy. An espresso is about 0.8 euro while a cappuccino is about 1.2 euro. No wonder coffee is the “national drink” in Italy.

義大利人喝咖啡的花樣，也是多到令人咋舌。除了濃縮咖啡（espresso）、雙份濃縮咖啡（double espresso）、卡普奇諾（cappuccino）以外，還有著各式各樣的變化，加上一匙奶泡的馬其朵（macchiato）、放上一坨發泡鮮奶油的康保藍（con panna）、近幾年來時興的美式咖啡（americano或lungo）、或是摻入烈酒的克雷多（corretto）等，都是義大利人喝咖啡的名堂。其中，克雷多這種喝法，我還真是到了義鄉以後才首次嘗試。可以加在咖啡裡的烈酒種類繁多，也讓克雷多成了千面女郎，有著各種迷人的風貌，而最受我所喜愛者，非加入餐後酒渣釀白蘭地者莫屬，風味濃烈而直接的酒香配上威尼斯老咖啡店特選烘培、口感溫順的咖啡，在酒足飯飽之際，可謂一大享受。
There are many ways Italians consume coffee. Apart from espresso, double espresso and cappuccino, there are some other variations like “macchiato” with a bit milk foam, “con panna” with whipped cream, “americano” or “lungo” with more water, and “corretto” with a drop of liquor. I only got to know “corretto” after I came to Italy. There are many different kinds of liquor that can be added into espresso, and it creates the charming variations of it. I especially like to have it with a drop of grappa. It’s such an enjoyment to have an espresso that is prepared by my favorite coffee from Venice with a drop of prestigious grappa after meal.

義大利人對咖啡，有著濃到化不開的情感，咖啡，伴隨著義大利人的腳步，也融入我義鄉生活的每一日。
Coffee can not be separated from Italian life. It gradually “melts” into my life in Italy along with Italians.

本文原載於中文雜誌《雅砌ARCH》2004年九月號

About Tattoo with Chinese Characters

剛剛看完一篇有關外國人在自己身上刺上中國字的文章，藉此疏發一下我對諸如此類的感受。
I’ve just read an article describing the phenomenon that some westerners like to put various tattoos of Chinese characters on their own bodies. That inspires me to put down some thoughts about what I feel and what I’ve seen.

從我搬離台灣以來，在歐洲看到不少「中國風」的東西，其中當然包括外國人喜歡繡在衣服上或刺在身上斗大的中國字或日本字，讓人笑岔了氣的例子，實在不勝列舉，也只能對周圍的朋友諄諄告誡，千萬不要輕易就做出這樣的決定，以免成了笑話而不自覺。
After I moved to Europe, I’ve discovered that “Chinese flavor” is becoming widely diffused, including tattoos of Chinese or Japanese characters that some people like to put on their clothes or their own skin. I’ve seen too many funny examples, and since then I’m always telling my friends not to make such decision before thorough consideration, so they won’t become “jokes” themselves without knowing it.

我向來都有個習慣，走在街上總是會不經意地看看周圍的路人，也因此看到不少有趣的畫面。外國人在身上刺中國字，總是脫不了自己的生肖、名字，或是一些他們覺得很酷的字眼。與人閒聊時做做國民外交，幫人把姓名翻譯成中文，這已經是稀鬆平常的事情，可是到目前為止，還是無法理解為什麼有人喜歡把這些文字刺在身上。
It’s my habit to look around when I walk on the street, and I can always get some fun out of it. The tattoos of Chinese characters are always related to Chinese zodiac, names or some though-to-be cool phrases. I am quite used to receive requests from foreign friends, asking to write down their names in Chinese characters. However, I still cannot understand why some people want to use them as “pictures” for tattoos.

曾經有一次，走在街上時眼睛習慣性地亂瞟，看到一名女子，在臂膀上刺了大大的「雞」字，當時沒有另作聯想，只是覺得有些奇怪，不過今天看了他人大作以後，才猛然驚覺這個字另外隱含的意義，那名女子也許只是很高興地把自己的生肖刺在身上，殊不知中文裡，這個字也可以代表著其他特殊意˙˙˙
One time, I was looking around on the street as I always did. There’s a woman with a big Chinese character of “chicken” on her arm. I didn’t really think too much about it, but just felt a bit strange. It’s not until today when I read the article on another web site that I realized that this character also carries another “special” meaning. That woman was probably putting her own Chinese zodiac as a tattoo, not knowing it can also refer to “prostitute” in the Chinese language.

在我的諄諄告誡之下，許多義籍友人總是會把家裡的掛幅或身旁友人的刺青，拿來向我請教一番。這個夏天，信箱裡就收到一張照片，向我詢問某女腳踝上的刺青是否有誤。打開檔案，差點沒笑岔了氣，原本的「天堂」，不小心在「天」上面突出了那麼一點點，成了「夫堂」，自己在往天堂的路上跌了一跤，硬要解釋，啟不成了男子尋歡做樂的對象？
My Italian friends are always careful after I explained to them about tattoos with Chinese characters. Many of them actually ask me about whatsoever pictures or paintings they have at home, or the tattoos they see with their friends. This summer, I received a picture in my mailbox, asking about the meaning of a tattoo on the foot of a female friend. I opened the file, and then started laughing like crazy. The phrase “paradise” is composed of two Chinese characters. On the very first character, the stroke is not supposed to project out, but it did… The meaning of the phrase totally changed, if I had to give it a meaning. On the road to the heaven, she slipped by accident and was turned to “some place for men to have fun with”?

告誡各位外國朋友，刺青，真的要小心！
To all my foreign friends, you should really be careful if you want to make a tattoo with Chinese characters!

Some Account of Biennale di Venezia 2004

An installation in the Italian Pavilion.


前一陣子在因緣際會之下，替台灣某雜誌寫了一篇有關這次威尼斯建築雙年展的報導，對建築所知不多的我，為了寫這篇有關義大利媒體觀點的文章，連續蒐集了好幾天的報紙報導，在短短不到一個星期的時間，完成了一篇還差強人意的文章，也正因為如此，在這次建築雙年展剛開始之際，便對展出內容有了點概念，心裡也打定主意，抽空到威尼斯看看。

For some strange reasons, I’ve got the request to write an article about the Biennale di Venezia for a Taiwanese magazine. Not knowing too much about architecture, I’ve collected newspaper cuttings for some days to have a broad picture about the view and opinion from the Italian media. Within a week, I was able to complete a decent article. Due to this reason, I’ve got some ideas about the Biennale at the beginning of the exhibition and decided to go take a look in Venice.

一個風和日麗的星期日早上，我們和另外兩位友人一同動身前往威尼斯看展。抵達主要展場綠園城堡時，已經將近午時，到窗口取了票，入場以後，我們便從西班牙館開始，一一瀏覽綠園城堡區內的各個國家館。
A beautiful Sunday morning, we went to Venice to visit the exhibition with two friends. When we arrived the Giardini, it’s almost noontime. After collecting our tickets and entered the Giardini, we started visiting pavilions of all participating countries from the Spanish Pavilion.

花了一個下午，我們只大略瀏覽了綠園城堡，根本就來不及去另一個展場軍火庫看看。綠園城堡區內的國家館，給了我很奇怪的印象，由於事先就已經注意到媒體評論以及得獎名單，我對幾個受到好評的展示區特別多看了兩眼，卻讓我大失所望。整體而言，在這次建築雙年展中，裝置藝術與建築的界線並不是那麼明顯，在義大利館內尤其如此，其他幾個較受好評的館，包括英國、德國、日本、還有得獎的比利時等，只有英國與德國有讓人眼睛一亮的感覺，尤其是英國館內有關Dublin Spike的架設過程，更是讓我大開眼界。某位評論家所大力推薦的日本館，以御宅族為主題，在我眼中，不過是西方社會對於日本文化的好奇心驅策下的產物，這與建築有啥顯而易見的關聯，我到現在仍然百思不解。
We took the whole afternoon visiting the Giardini. To get to the Arsenale was just impossible. The overall impression I got from the Giardini is quite strange. Having read some criticisms in advance, I paid some extra attention of the areas that received positive comments. However, it’s such a big disappointment to me. It seems to me that the boundary between installation art and architecture is diminishing, and it’s especially obvious in the Italian pavilion. Other pavilions that are highly praised include UK, Germany, Japan and Belgium. However, only the British pavilion impressed me, especially for the video about the construction of the Dublin Spike. In my opinion, the Japanese pavilion with its exhibition about the Otakus that was highly recommended by some critics is only a curiosity that was born due to the western curiosity to the Japanese culture. The link between the exhibition and architecture is not so obvious and I’m still wondering about it even now.

在專家的眼中，這是一次不容錯過的展出。不過在參觀過極受好評的綠園城堡區以後，我反而比較好奇想要看看軍火庫，以我自己的眼睛來加以評斷。
In the experts’ eyes, this is “The Biennale” that one shouldn’t miss. After visiting the Giardini that is said to be better in sense of exhibition, I’m more curious to judge the Arsenale area with my own eyes.

A Painter Who Paints Jazz

蜜爾卡和他老公毛羅，是老公中學時代的好友。這對夫妻，是我剛到義大利時初認識的幾個朋友之一，加上他們家裡特殊的故事，第一次見面就讓我留下深刻的印象。自我搬到義大利以後，偶爾也會去找他們聚一聚，這才知道蜜爾卡原來是在義大利小有知名度的畫家，而我在毛羅店裡看到的那幾幅風格特異的創作，原來是出自蜜爾卡的手下。
Mirca, her husband Mauro and my husband were high school classmates. They were one of the few people that I got to know during my first visit to Italy. With their special family story, I was deeply impressed at the first time we met. After I moved to Italy, we sometime go visiting them and I got to know that Mirca is a painter. The particular paintings I saw in Mauro’s shop are actually her art works.

今天晚上，蜜爾卡的畫展在維琴察市內某座原為教堂的展場舉行開幕典禮，這個熱鬧當然得去湊一下。當我們準時晚上六點抵達會場時，裡面已經有不少人在等待，進去和蜜爾卡打個招呼，我們便逕自看起畫來，同時並等待主辦人致詞。
There’s an opening ceremony of Mirca’s exhibition tonight. The place used to be a church and now serves as a place for artistic exhibition. We arrived on time at 6PM. and there’re already many visitors. After we greeted Mirca, we started to make a short tour of all the works, until the organizer was ready to give a talk.

從蜜爾卡的畫中，我可以感受到另一個她，那是完全不同於平日，一個很深沉的她。參加她的畫展，這已經是第二次了，從前看的時候，總有種說不出的特殊感受，然而我一直找不到適當的言語來形容；今天，當主辦人在展場中心致詞的時候，提到了爵士樂，我腦海中馬上閃起驚嘆號，就是它了，是的，對我來說，蜜爾卡的畫就像是爵士樂，時而深沉，時而輕快，不過卻帶著極為強烈的意念。
I can feel another self of Mirca from her paintings. It’s not the same person that I see normally. It’s someone of profound character. This is the second time I attended her exhibition. There’s always a special feeling when I saw her works, but I just couldn’t find the right thing and right word to explain my feelings. Tonight, when the organizer was giving his speech at the center of the exhibition hall, he mentioned jazz. At that very moment, there’s a “!” in my mind. That’s it! Yes, Mirca’s paintings are like jazz music to me, sometimes deep, sometimes light, but with strong messages.

我不懂畫，以前排斥看畫這件事，覺得這不是我的東西。不過到義大利住了幾年，耳濡目染，想法漸漸地改變。到現在，反而覺得，其實看畫也是件蠻有趣味的事。
I don’t know much about paintings. I was even against the idea to go to art galleries, because I felt I didn’t belong. After I moved to Italy, probably due to the “air”, I started to change. Now I’d even enjoy it. It’s actually quite fun to go see paintings.

Mom's Visit - Walking in the Fishermen Island

目前仍有少數漁家避居此地的漁人島，是湖中著名的觀光地點。仍然保有樸實古風的小鎮，是我到馬焦雷湖遊玩時非常喜歡的一個定點。在島上舖滿石板的狹窄巷道裡穿梭，享受著慵懶的氣氛，有著一種時光靜止般的奇妙感受。
Though the island itself has become a popular tourist attraction, there are still some fishermen who live a simple life on this tiny small place. The antique and rustic atmosphere makes it my favorite among all places I’ve visited around Lago Maggiore. Walking through the narrow alley with stone pavement and enjoying the relaxed air about it, time seemed to have frozen in this old village on the lake.

Mom's Visit - Isola dei Pescatori

時間在聊天賞景中流逝，轉眼間，我們已經抵達漁人島，看看手錶，竟也坐了一個多小時的船，不過離午餐尚有一點時間，因此我們決定先在島上走走。
Time flied so fast when we were chatting and enjoying the landscape. It seemed that we arrived the Fisherman Island (Isola dei Pescatori) within short time, but in reality it took us more than an hour for the trip. It’s still early for lunch. So we decided to walk around on the isle.

Mom's Visit - Lago Maggiore

天氣清朗時，義大利的夏日湖畔，景色特別宜人。
When the weather is nice, the landscape is especially beautiful around the lakeside.

趁著週末，開車去米蘭西北方的瑪焦雷湖，順便央著路卡，開船載大家出航去。誰知，週五晚上竟然刮大風，氣溫驟然下降，八月盛夏，半夜的氣溫降到十五度，也是夠奇怪的一件事。隔天早上，看著湖上一陣一陣的浪，開船出去大概是不可能了，所幸航行湖上各島嶼間的交通船還有開，我們也就只好跳上交通船，準備到漁人島和貝拉島走走。
We decided to go to Lago Maggiore at northwest of Milan during the weekend, so we could ask Luca, my husband’s best friend, to take us for a boat ride on the lake. However, the weather turned windy on Friday night. The north wind brought down the temperature. It’s strange enough that the temperature was only 15℃ in the hot summer night. In the next morning, it’s still quite wavy on the lake and made it impossible to go out with smaller boat. Luckily, we could still choose to take the cruise to travel among the isles. At that moment, it’s the only way if we wanted to visit Isola dei Pescatori and Isola Bella.

坐在平穩的大船上往外看，點點帆船與水上波紋反射出的耀眼陽光，把整個湖點綴的好不熱鬧。
Sitting on the big cruise and looking outward, there’re lots of sailing boats taking the chance for a nice ride. With the reflection of sunlight, the whole lake seemed so busy.

Mom's Visit - Arena di Verona

2001年當我在義鄉舉行婚禮之際，丈母娘的身分，讓我娘在婚禮的前一晚，無法像其他來參加婚禮的親戚一樣，到維洛納去觀賞露天歌劇，留下了遺憾。所以這次當然義無反顧，說什麼也要帶她去親身體驗一下維洛納最著名的夏日歌劇節。
When I got married in 2001, my mom brought a group of relatives to come and participate my wedding. Because she needed to help me with the preparation, she couldn’t join the group to see the opera in Verona on the night before the wedding. It was one of the many regrets of the trip. This time, we definitely wanted to take her to the opera and experience the famous opera season in Verona.

為了避免在烈日下汗雨淋漓排隊的慘況，我們買的是有劃位的票，兩張票卻也付了將近兩百歐元。平常我和老公去看歌劇，都是買最便宜的票，多花點時間排隊，不過這次為了省體力，只好拿白花花的銀子來換，老公也因此決定放牛吃草，讓我獨自和老娘兩個人摸到維洛納看歌劇，等到結束以後再來接人…這才知道，原來他現在對我自己一個人在義大利趴趴走這麼有信心啦！
To avoid the long queue under the sun, we bought the tickets with assigned seats. To enjoy this privilege, we did pay some money for it and altogether it’s about 200 Euro. If I go to Verona for the opera with my husband, we always buy the cheapest tickets, spending some more time on the queue. To save some energy, we decided to pay the expensive price. Therefore, I could only leave my husband at home and go with my mom alone, to save some money. It is not until we decided to do this that I know my husband is so confident about my Italian and he wouldn’t mind I go around by myself any more.

簡單吃完果腹式的晚餐（一份三明治加上礦泉水），也將近晚上九點了，我還是第一次在演出快開始的時候，才大搖大擺地走進劇場，想想，以前都是從五點多就在裡面坐到開演，幾個小時下來，大理石台階的座位早就讓人腰酸背痛，等到演出的時候屁股早已發麻，能夠這麼舒服地看歌劇，這還是頭一遭。
We had a simple dinner, only a sandwich and a bottle of mineral water. It’s about 9PM. To be honest, it was the very first time for me to arrive the venue just before the performance started. In the past, we always arrived around 5PM to join the queue and wait until the hour when the performance began. After a couple hours sitting on the hard stone seat, it’s giving me backache and my butt was numb. It’s the first time I could comfortably enjoy the opera.

隨著領位人員，我們找到了位置，真的是好的不像話，正中央的位置，旁邊就是給貴賓走的紅地毯，之前網路購票的時候，因為不能選位，本來還讓我頗擔心，沒想到主辦單位還蠻公平的，果然是按照先來後到，也更讓我有值回票價的好感。
We followed the service personnel to our seats. I was worried because we booked the ticket through the net and couldn’t choose the seats with the system. It proved that the organizer did according to their promise and assigned the seats with a “first come first serve” basis. Our seats were just at the center, beside the red carpet for the VIPs. At least I didn’t spend the money for nothing.

演出前，舞台上有人拿著大鑼跑出來預告了三次，之後整個燈光暗了下來，主辦單位也請觀眾按照傳統，點起手上的蠟燭，會場中頓時點點星光，真是浪漫到不行~~~
Before the performance started, a guy went up to the stage with a big gong and announced three times. After that, the light went off gradually. The organizer invited the audience to light up candles according to the tradition of Arena di Verona. Suddenly, spots of candlelight filled up the space, creating a very romantic atmosphere.

Mom's Visit: Vicenza

「來了幾次義大利，都沒有好好地逛逛妳住的這個城市…」娘如是說。其實，維琴察也不是不好玩，只是每次都礙於種種因素，無法帶著娘好好認識這個地方，這次終於有點時間慢慢看，所以就挑了個下午，到市中心去逛一逛。
"I've come here for several times... but I've never visited the city where you live." Mom said. Well, Vicenza is actually a good place to visit, but for various reasons I just couldn't find the time to take my mom around during her last two visits. She's finally staying a bit longer this time, so we picked a nice afternoon to visit the historic center of Vicenza.

維琴察除了每年有三次義大利最著名的黃金飾品展以外，也是建築人朝聖地之一，原因無他，就是為了十六世紀著名的建築大師帕拉底歐的作品，因此，許多建築人常常會到維琴察來個帕拉底歐之旅，仔細地參觀各座出於大師之手的豪華宅邸。在維琴察的市中心，必訪之處有二，一是到主廣場Piazza dei Signori看Basilica Palladiana，二則是Teatro Olympico，都是大師之作。事實上，維琴察又有帕拉底歐之城的美名，整個市中心也因為大師留下來的重要作品，被聯合國列入世界遺產名錄之中。
Every year, three major gold fairs are held in Vicenza. However, Vicenza is not only famous for the gold industry, it is also a pilgrimage place for architects due to Palladian villas of the 16th century. Many architects come to see the grand villas designed by Palladio. There are two must-go in Vicenza center. One is the Basilica Palladiana in the main square Piazza dei Signori. The other is Teatro Olympico at one side of the major street Corso Palladio. Both sites were important works that Palladio left behind. Vicenza actually enters the World Heritage List for its richness of Palladian works.

早早吃了午餐，就央著老公開車把我們送到市中心，時間上剛好可以先去看看劇場和博物館，然後到鄰近的商店主街瞎拼一番。八月初的義大利，許多城市都在唱空城計，度假月嘛，不在度假勝地的很多店家，也會放著白花花的鈔票不賺，關門玩耍去。不喜歡人擠人的話，八月的義大利，除了熱了點，逛起來倒是很舒服的地方。
We had an early lunch. My husband sent us to the center. The time was just right for visiting the theater and museum, and then for some shopping. August is time for vacation and many cities are actually empty. In less touristic places, some shops are closed for vacation. It is a good time to visit Italy for those who do not enjoy crowds but can endure hot weather.

Mom's Visit: Venezia

老爹說：「都已經是第三次到義大利找女兒，還去威尼斯嗎？」
"It's the third time you visit your dayghter in Italy. Are you still going to Venice?" Dad asked.

當然！美麗的水都百看不厭，加上前兩次行程匆促，說真的也沒有看到什麼該參觀的景點，反正搭火車也不過一個小時，為何不去？
Of course!! It's impossible to be tired of the every changing beauty of Venice. Also, the previous two visits were in such a hurry that my mom didn't really get to see some tourist attractions. After all, it's just an hour of train. So why didn't we go?

讓老公過一天Chinese-free的日子，我決定自己帶著娘去探險。雖然還算常去威尼斯，不過說真的，到目前為止我還是沒有把任何一條路記起來，每次都是靠著方向感走到聖馬可廣場…「你怎麼沒有帶我去上次買玻璃墜子的那家店？」娘這一問起來，我才想到，似乎又轉錯條街，大概是不太可能走回去了…我們兩就這麼在大街小巷閒逛，順著指標往聖馬可廣場前進，真的看到聖馬可教堂的時候，也已經是午飯時間，於是就決定找一家店坐下來吃點午餐。
My mom and I decided to go without the company of my husband, so he could finally enjoy a Chinese-free day. I go to Venice pretty often, but to tell the truth, I still can't remember any name of the streets. All the time, I follow my sense of direction to arrive the San Marco Square. "Why didn't you take me to the shop where I bought glass pendants last time?" My mom asked. No until that moment I didn't realize that I've turned at the wrong corner again. It's impossible to go backward just for that single shop. So we started to wander around, and followed the indication for San Marco Square. When we saw the San Marco Church, it's already time for lunch. We then decided to find a place for some light snack.

用餐完畢，一到總督府（Palazzo Ducale）前面，我們兩就傻了眼，大排長龍的隊伍，讓人看了有點心慌，不知是否應該加入行列…「下次人少一點再進去，既然以後還有機會，就等著下次和老爹一起看吧！」
After we finished our meal, we went to Pallazo Ducale and saw a very long line in front of the entrance. I was a bit worried, not knowing if we should join the queue or not. "We can wait for another occasion. In any case, I will still come here to visit you. We can wait until your dad come next time."

夏季…果然不是參觀威尼斯的好時間。
Summer... is not a good time to visit Venice.

Mom's Visit: Marostica

馬洛斯帝卡，是一個很有中世紀風味的古城。城牆連接著位於平地的下城與居高臨下的上城，整個位於城鎮被厚重的城牆圍了起來，遠遠望去，清晰可見。

每兩年九月，小鎮最重要的傳統節慶，吸引著世人的目光，接踵而至的遊客，來到這裡享受中世紀風情，欣賞由真人實物演出的西洋棋局。傳說很久以前，統領馬洛斯帝卡的國王，有著一個貌如天先的女兒，鄰近兩國的王子，都積極地爭取聯姻的機會。為了怕引起戰爭，國王於是決定，邀請兩國王子以博奕的方式決定勝負，並將公主許配給贏家，輸家則迎娶國王的妹妹。流傳至今，故事的真假已不可考，不過卻逐漸演變成了小鎮最重要的節慶，被選上在節慶中扮演各種角色的居民，更是雀躍不已。

現在的下城，是當地政府的辦公室與遊客資訊中心，同時也特別闢室展示許多該地某收藏家多年來累積收藏而捐給當地政府的中世紀服裝。上城則成了一家私人經營的餐廳，是非常受歡迎的婚宴場地。來到此地，即使不到餐廳消費用餐，還是要爬到上城廢墟，飽覽平原風光，絕佳的視野，不容錯過。


Mom's Visit: Matostica

Mom's Visit: a short trip

從我搬到歐洲以來，娘前前後後總共來了三次（包括這次），第一次是結婚時從台灣帶了一團親友團，第二次則是趁著台灣過農曆年，跟著老爹來〝沾醬油〞五天，不過這兩次，她都是來去匆匆，時間總在忙碌的參觀與訪友行程中度過。

我今年雖然因為工作回台灣待了三個月，不過因為工作忙碌，實在也抽不出空陪她出國走走，因此便有了夏天訪歐的想法，從我五月底回到義大利，就開始努力構思行程。

原本的計畫，是要到奧地利去走走，不過誰知在我排完行程訂完旅館以後，才知道我那今年過期的居留證，竟要等到十月初才會下來，對酷愛旅行的我來說，真不啻為晴天霹靂，然而在此地政府辦事員的警告之下，我們還是決定按著規矩行事，以免到時候出了不必要的麻煩，所以到頭來，娘的歐洲之行還是變成了第三次義大利行。

既然這有點是狀況外，貼心的女兒和女婿還是努力把忙碌的工作時程排開，帶娘在北義趴趴走，去看看一些很久以來就想要帶她去走走的地方。

A Sweet Surprise from Cologne

德國行，好友趁著週末的空檔，決定帶著我出去走走，商討之下，決定以科隆為當日的目標，在經過一番長途跋涉之後，來到這個以巍峨聳立的哥德式大教堂聞名於世的德國古城。

在進入教堂之前，看到了遊客服務中心，便順道進去拿了一份科隆市地圖，也順便看看還有什麼好玩的地方。密密麻麻的遊客資訊中，幾行不起眼的字寫著「巧克力博物館」，心裡納悶著，怎麼從來沒有聽說過德國有出好吃的巧克力，更別說在這邊找到此類博物館，因此，便將它列入科隆大教堂以後的行程。

茵姆赫夫-史托威爾克博物館，這座位於萊因河畔的私人博物館，自1993年開館以來，就是科隆市極受歡迎的觀光景點。有關可可的介紹、起源等，都以雙語（英文、德文）的方式呈現，不諳德文的外籍觀光客，也不至於產生不得其門而入的感覺。只是，在參觀過程中，看到一名德籍導遊對導覽團體的精采介紹，不禁讓我感慨了起來，後悔自己沒有把德文學好，只能在這裡望之興嘆。

不論如何，我和朋友們還是從各種展示與解說中，了解了許多與可可和巧克力相關的知識。其中最令眾人感興趣的，應該就是現代化巧克力生產的過程，只見一整個展示室放滿著各式各樣的機器，上面以一、二、三等註明次序，讓參觀者可以看到從可可豆到成品的製造過程，並且在旁品嘗，整個展示室裡瀰漫著巧克力香，不禁讓人飢腸轆轆，在巧克力池旁流連忘返…

博物館三樓的展示，是有關史托威爾克公司產品的各種包裝、海報等，我也是到了這裡，才猛然發現這間博物館的創設公司，以及其用為商標的小黑人，其實好像曾經在哪裡看過，也許，因為我對於這家公司的巧克力並沒有偏好，因此它並沒有進入我的「巧克力美食地圖」之中，也害我差一點遺漏了這間有趣的博物館。

參觀完畢後到了賣場，自然又是一番血拼。雖然館方並沒有印製各種有關博物館的介紹手冊，但是展場中各式各樣令人垂涎的巧克力，還是讓人目不暇給，然而，在考慮到重量與旅途，我只得割愛，僅選了兩小盒帶回家。在踏出館的同時，心中也許願，將來有一天，我還要帶著老公回來，重享這種甜蜜的喜悅。