[Greece 2004] Athens Impression (1-3)

「閉上眼睛，只要旁邊的人不講話，感覺上好像回到台北…」
“Closed my eyes. When no one was talking, it gave me the illusion that I was back in Taipei.”

在一張寄給友人的明信片中，我寫下了這樣一段話。是的，初到雅典，一個我從小夢寐以求的國度，給了我這樣的第一印象。炎熱的天氣、滿街跑的小黃、高高低低的水泥大樓，似乎跟我心目中的古都有著很大的差距，然而，遠赴異鄉定居的我，竟然在這裡找到了其他地方所沒有的親切感。
In one of the postcards for my friends, I wrote down the sentence. Yes it is. It’s my first time to Athens, a place I’ve been dreaming for so long, however, and I got such a weird impression. The hot weather, yellow taxis all around the city, high and low concrete buildings, all these seemed to be far from what I’ve imagined. However, unexpectedly, a sense of friendliness where I could find nowhere in Europe was there. Strangely, for me who am far away from my homeland, it’s giving me a comforting feeling.

真的，閉上眼睛，我又回到了台北。
Really… when I closed my eyes, I was back in Taipei.

*****

雅典的許多古建築，都在70年代左右被拆毀改建，以滿足日益上升的住屋需求。
Many old buildings were destroyed to provide space for new constructions in the 70s in Athens, in response to housing needs.

記得在2002年的威尼斯建築雙年展，我與希臘友人蜜兒多來到了希臘館，當時正在義大利唸書的她，已有好一陣子沒有回家看看了。進入希臘館，她告訴我：「他們好誠實喔！你看，雅典就是長這個樣子。」四處林立的水泥建築，看似毫無規劃、雜亂無章的散佈著，對我來說確實是個震撼！
When Mirto and I visited the Venice Biennale of Architecture in 2002, she’s come to Italy for her study and didn’t go back to Athens for a while. When we entered the Greek pavilion, she was impressed. “They are so honest! Look, it is exactly how Athens look like.” Concrete buildings all around without planning and order, it was such a shock for me.

等我真正親訪雅典，卻讓我在異鄉找到了非常親切、熟悉的感覺。雅典，這個友善的城市，意外地給了我一個大大的擁抱，獨自走在熙來攘往的人群中，我，竟然毫不感到孤獨，反而有種置身台北東區的錯覺。
After I arrived Athens, surprisingly, I’ve found a very familiar and friendly feeling in such a foreign place for me. Athens gave me a big hug. Walking in the crowd, I didn’t feel lonely though I was all by myself. Instead, I seemed to walk in downtown Taipei.

*****

旅途中，迷路可以是一種樂趣。
Getting lost can be fun during a trip.

雅典市區，就以Plaka區保留的最為完整。這個巷道蜿蜒的區域，雖然因為觀光業的發達，而成就了林立的大小商店與餐廳，然而稍微往店家少一點的地方走去，還是可以享受到靜謐的氣氛，遠離塵囂。轉個彎，看見一個迷人的角落，抬起頭，發現一扇美麗的窗戶。烈日下，在各個古蹟中遊走，獨自一人，享受著迷路的樂趣。
Plaka is the most preserved area in Athens. This is an area full of tiny little streets. Due to its popularity and the tourism industry, many places are converted into shops and restaurants. However, if you turn towards a less popular area without too many shops around, the quietness can still be found and enjoyed. You turn to see a charming corner of town, or raise your head to discover a beautiful window. Under the sun, I wandered in this old part of Athens. All by myself, I enjoyed the fun of getting lost.